Severe weather can hit your garage door harder than you think. High winds can bow panels, flying debris can dent tracks, and power surges can knock out openers. 

The tricky part is that some storm damage is obvious (a bent door or broken window), while other issues are hidden (misaligned tracks, loosened hardware, spring stress). This guide walks you through what to do immediately after a storm, how to spot damage you might miss, and how to decide between repair and replacement.

Step 1: Immediate safety checklist 

Before touching anything, prioritize safety. A storm-damaged garage door can be unstable, heavy, and unpredictable.

1) Look for danger signs from a distance

•    Door is crooked, sagging, or off track
•    Cables look slack, frayed, or hanging
•    You see broken glass, splintered wood, or sharp debris near the opening
•    The door is stuck partially open
•    Loud new noises when it tries to move (grinding, popping, banging)
If any of these are true, do not operate the door.
 

2) Secure your home if the door won’t close

•    If the garage is exposed and the door won’t close, avoid forcing it
•    Use temporary barriers if safe to do so (plywood, tarps, or interior blocking)
•    If the door is halfway open and unstable, keep people and vehicles away from the opening until it’s professionally secured
 

3) Cut power to the opener if you suspect electrical damage

Storms can cause surges. If you smell burning, see flickering lights, or the opener behaves erratically:
•    Unplug the opener (or switch off the breaker)
•    Don’t keep testing the wall button or remote
 

4) Document everything (before cleanup)

For insurance and warranty purposes:
•    Take wide photos of the door, tracks, opener, and any debris impact points
•    Capture close-ups of dents, cracks, and misalignment
•    Note the storm date and what you observed (door stuck, wouldn’t close, etc.)
 

Step 2: Common storm damage types (what to check)

Once it’s safe, do a careful visual inspection. You’re looking for issues that affect structure, movement, and balance.

Wind damage

High winds can push a door inward or pull it outward, especially if it’s older or not reinforced.

Check for:

•    Bowed or flexed panels
•    Gaps along the sides or top seal
•    Loose hinges or shifted panel alignment
 

Debris impact damage

Branches, roof shingles, and flying objects can hit panels or tracks.

Check for:

•    Dents that crease a panel (creases weaken the door)
•    Bent track sections
•    Damaged weather seal or bottom rubber
 

Water intrusion & moisture damage

Heavy rain and flooding can soak bottom panels and corrode metal parts.

Check for:

•    Swollen wood/composite panels near the bottom
•    Rust on rollers, hinges, springs, or track brackets
•    Mold or water staining around the frame
 

Power surge or lightning-related opener damage

Surges can damage opener boards, sensors, and wiring.

Check for:

•    Opener won’t respond even after resetting
•    Lights flash or click but the motor doesn’t run
•    Sensors blink or won’t align
•    Remote/keypad stops working suddenly
 

Step 3: Hidden damage most homeowners miss

Even if your door “still works,” storms can create problems that cause failure days or weeks later.

1) Track misalignment

A slight bend or shifted bracket can cause:
•    Jerky movement
•    Door rubbing or binding
•    Rollers popping or wobbling
 

2) Loose mounting hardware

Wind vibration can loosen fasteners on:
•    Track brackets
•    Hinges
•    Opener rail supports
•    Header mounting points
 

3) Spring and cable stress

If the door was forced by wind or moved unevenly:
•    Springs can lose balance
•    Cables can fray or jump on the drum
•    Door may become heavier or uneven over time
 

4) Seal damage that increases energy loss

A storm can tear weather stripping or shift the frame, creating gaps that:
•    Let in water, pests, and drafts
•    Increase heating/cooling loss if your garage is attached
 

Step 4: Should you test the door after a storm?

Only do a basic test if the door appears stable and aligned.

Safe “light test” (no forcing)

1.    Stand inside the garage, clear the area.
2.    Use the wall button to run the door a few inches only.
3.    Listen for grinding, popping, or straining.
4.    Stop immediately if it hesitates, tilts, or shakes.

If anything feels off, stop testing, continued operation can turn minor damage into major repairs.
 

Step 5: Repair options (what can usually be fixed)
 

Many storm-related issues are repairable, especially when addressed early.

Often repairable:

•    Bent track sections (replacement of a section + realignment)
•    Damaged rollers (roller replacement + safety tune-up)
•    Loose hinges/brackets (hardware replacement + re-secure mounting)
•    Weather seal replacement (bottom seal, perimeter trim)
•    Sensor realignment or replacement
•    Opener surge repair (sometimes board replacement; sometimes full opener replacement)

Sometimes repairable (depends on severity):

•    Single panel repair/replacement for dents (only if the door model supports it and structure isn’t compromised)
•    Minor door bowing (may improve with reinforcement, but not always)
 

Step 6: When replacement is the smarter move

Replacement isn’t always necessary, but it’s often the best long-term choice when safety or structure is compromised.

Consider replacing the door if:

•    Multiple panels are creased, cracked, or warped
•    The door is older and replacement parts are hard to source
•    The door has severe bowing or can’t be properly aligned
•    The door is no longer safe to reinforce (especially in high-wind areas)
•    Repeated repairs are adding up close to the cost of a new system

Consider replacing the opener if:

•    The motor/board was damaged by a surge and repairs are near the cost of new
•    The opener is outdated and lacks modern safety/security features
•    The rail or mounting points are bent and unreliable
 

Step 7: Choosing the right path (repair vs. replace decision guide)

Here’s a quick way to decide:

Repair is usually best when:

•    Damage is localized (track section, a few rollers, weather seal)
•    Door structure is solid and moves evenly after alignment
•    Total repair cost is low compared to replacement

Replacement is usually best when:

•    Damage affects structure (multiple panels, severe warping/bowing)
•    Safety is compromised (door won’t track safely, repeated cable/spring issues)
•    The system is aging and future reliability is a concern
 

Step 8: What to tell a technician (to speed up service)

When you call for help, share:

•    What the door is doing (won’t open, stuck halfway, crooked)
•    What you heard (bang, grinding, popping)
•    Whether you lost power or had a surge
•    Any visible damage (dents, bent track, frayed cables)
•    Whether you need the garage secured urgently
This helps prioritize the right parts and response.

Final takeaway: secure first, diagnose second

After severe weather, the goal is to prevent injury and further damage. If the door is unstable, off track, or stuck partially open, it’s time to stop operating it and get professional help.
LGA Garage Door can inspect storm-related damage, secure the opening, and recommend the safest repair or replacement option, so you’re not dealing with a bigger failure a week later.